Those who follow the slightest trends in beauty will
certainly noticed the increased presence on the market of hyaluronic acid, ingredient almost become mythical. Believe me, he's here to stay!
Hyaluronic acid is found naturally in the fluids of the body (vitreous humor, synovial fluid, etc.) and in the tissues of the skin (extracellular matrix), where it is most abundant.
This small molecule is able to contain 1000x its weight in water, which confers to it a property of humectant quite impressive. Note also that it would have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. It would also have been proven to control and improve the hydration of the skin! However, care must be taken because, if used in a dry environment, hyaluronic acid can absorb water from the skin and dehydrate it. To prevent this from happening, it should be used in conjunction with occlusive agents (propylene glycol, squalane, argan oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, etc.) water in the superficial layers of the skin.
With age, the hyaluronic acid contained in the skin would tend to diminish ... it is among other reasons why we like that it is found in our cosmetics. It is found in several skin care products, in topical form or in injection. Cream, serum, booster, cleanser! He is everywhere ! You also find it sometimes under the sodium hyaluronate (the sodium form of hyaluronic acid) which is more bioavailable.
Several brands of cosmetics claim anti-aging virtues miracles in connection with this ingredient, but one must be wary and be realistic. Apply topically, hyaluronic acid can not, because of its size, cross the dermis. Some forms can pass through the superficial layers of the skin, but no more. So beware of brands that claim that thanks to it, their cream reduces wrinkles and adds volume! Certainly, by moisturizing the skin the fine lines may appear diminished, but this effect is only temporary and linked to better hydration.
So, what to remember?
Hyaluronic acid is an ingredient to remember. It has considerable moisturizing properties, when used in topical care. However, it does not usually allow, in this form, to "give more volume" to the skin or eliminate the wrinkles caused by aging. Only his injection can get there.
Hyaluronate sodiumin the ChemIDplus database, consulted on 21 September
Spruitt D. The interference of some substances with the water vapor loss of human skin. Dermatologica. 1971; 142: 89.
Trookman NS, Rizer RL, Ford R, et al. Immediate and long-term clinical benefits of a topical treatment for facial lines and wrinkles. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2009; 2: 38.
Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258. http://doi.org/10.4161/derm.21923
Pavicic T, Gauglitz GG, Lersch P, et al. Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. J Drugs dermatol. 2011; 10: 990