Those who follow the slightest beauty trends will have
certainly noticed the increased presence on the market of hyaluronic acid, ingredient almost become mythical. Believe me, he is here to stay!
L'acide hyaluronique: c'est quoi?
Hyaluronic acid is found naturally in body fluids (vitreous humor, synovial fluid, etc.) as well as in skin tissues (extracellular matrix), where it is most abundant.
This small molecule is able to contain 1000x its weight in water, which gives it a rather impressive humectant property. It should also be noted that it has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. It would also have been proven to control and improve skin hydration! However, care must be taken because, if used in a dry environment, hyaluronic acid can absorb water out of the skin and dehydrate it. To prevent this from occurring, make sure to use it in conjunction with occlusive agents (propylene glycol, squalane, argan oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, etc.) that will retain water in the superficial layers of the skin.
L'acide hyaluronique diminue avec l'âge
With age, the hyaluronic acid contained in the skin would tend to decrease ... it is among others why we like it is found in our beauty products. It is found in several skin care products, in topical form or injection. Cream, serum, booster, cleanser! He is everywhere ! You also find it sometimes under the term sodium hyaluronate (the sodium form of hyaluronic acid) which is more bioavailable.
L'acide hyaluronique contre les rides?
Several brands of cosmetics claim miraculous anti-aging benefits in relation to this ingredient, but one must be wary and realistic. Apply topically, hyaluronic acid can not, because of its size, cross the dermis. Some forms can cross the superficial layers of the skin, but nothing more. Attention therefore brands that claim that thanks to him, their cream reduces wrinkles and adds volume! Certainly, by moisturizing the skin fine lines may appear diminished, but this effect is only temporary and related to better hydration.
So, what to remember?
Hyaluronic acid is an ingredient to remember. It has considerable moisturizing properties when used in topical care. However, it does not usually allow, in this form, to "give more volume" to the skin or eliminate wrinkles caused by aging. Only his injection can succeed.
Sodium hyaluronate in the ChemIDplus database, consulted on 21 September
Spruitt D. The interference of some substances with the water vapor of human skin. Dermatologica. 1971; 142: 89.
Trookman NS, RL RL, Ford R, et al. Immediate and long-term clinical benefits of a topical treatment for facial lines and wrinkles. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2009; 2: 38.
Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic Acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258. http://doi.org/10.4161/derm.21923
Pavicic T, Gauglitz GG, Lersch P, et al. Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. J Drugs dermatol. 2011; 10: 990